I’ll empty the bottom bin (nice new soil for the garden!), put in some new bedding, and place it on top of the farm. See the links below for information on ideal conditions.Īfter several months of adding food scraps and soil, and carefully avoiding over feeding, the top bin will be heading towards full. Just a sign of a healthy little ecosystem, I expect.Īlthough worms can escape pretty easily, they won’t try to unless conditions (temperature, moisture, food) in the bin are wrong. I’ve noticed a few small critters besides worms in my worm bins, but none seem to cause problems. Covering the food with a little soil helps avoid fruit flies and smells. Worms prefer food that’s already beginning to soften and rot, so I store scraps in a plastic container for a few days before feeding.

Whatever they’re fed, it’s best if it’s chopped up a bit before being added to the bin. Worms deal with most food scraps (including smashed up egg shells), but they’re not so keen on citrus, onion, garlic, meat, or dairy products.

A healthy worm farm doesn’t smell, so that’s not an issue. Where I live the climate’s pretty mild, so my worm farm sits outside most of the year. Worm farms can be kept inside or outside, but shouldn’t be exposed to direct sunlight, heat (above 30☌), or cold (below 10☌). The mostly worm-free soil from the bottom bin will then be used in the garden. Over the next few weeks, worms from the foodless bottom bin should migrate to the top bin (through all those 6mm holes) to find food and lay eggs. The bin shown in the previous two photos is the top bin in this photo.

The top bin contains the new bedding, food, a little soil, and some worms. The bottom bin contains the soil and worms from my old worm farm.

Download wax worms near me